Wonderful experience in Pontianak




Equator Monument in Siantan (1982)

Each time when Ramadan approaches I can't help but think about those days in the early 1980s  when I was the Malaysia Police Liaison Officer (MPLO) in Pontianak, the provincial capital of West Kalimantan. That was the first time in my career and life that I was out of the country. Hari Raya in Pontianak were the most enjoyable ever experienced throughout my life. The atmosphere and the hospitality  was something not experienced here. Maybe because I was a foreigner.This was understandable as not many visitors visited this equator city which is not a tourist destination.



The friends I come to know



If we take a close look at the map of Borneo,  Pontianak can be easily located.   Founded on 23  October 1771, Pontianak stands on the confluence of the river Kapuas and  Landak. My first encounter with this city  dated back to my primary school boy days.Never for once did I expect that one day I will be right in this equator city.

I  arrived in August 1982 amidst a severe drought in Pontianak.The following year the Malaysian Consulate was established. Ramadan in Pontianak was definitely  unique month for me. When it was time for  'sahur' groups of youths will go around their area hitting tins and electric posts to wake the  folks up for the morning meal in preparation for the fast. Breaking of fast was a normal affair in Pontianak as no bazaar Ramadan existed at that time. Maybe they too have it now, I don't know. By the way Pontianak is famous for the 'kueh lapis legit' or the layer cake.

The 'terawih' prayer was an occasion that everyone waited. Scores of people will congregate at the many mosques and suraus available throughout the town. Most lanes or "gang" as they are locally known have a place of worship. Interesting to note that unlike Malaysia the congregation remained  the same throughout the whole month of Ramadan.As far as we are concerned the number will gradually dwindle as the end approaches.

Going to the mosque in Pontianak during  Ramadan was really different from normal. In Pontianak as the Ramadan slowly approaches the end the atmosphere in this city changes. Loud explosions similar to an artillery fire especially along the river banks. The Pontianak cannons were fired only in the evening and this is a long time tradition since the rule of the Malay Sultanate in Pontianak. The Sultan of Pontianak used to fire cannons to mark the commence and break of fast. Since then the firing of cannons became a yearly tradition here.

 These cannons were mounted along the river banks and decorated with Indonesian flags. Villages located along the rivers will be basically at 'war' during this period. The carbide came from  donations collected from the villagers.

Of course the  local marine police were kept busy plying the river trying to confiscate these cannons.  The villagers have a strategy for this. At the sight of an approaching boat the cannons will be immediately submerged by ropes into the river and everyone disappear. The police normally will destroy whatever they could lay hands on by chopping them up.Nevertheless the sounds of cannons pounding will continue to fill the air once the law enforcement men left. However I see this as  a token move by the police as they  know very well about this local tradition  in West Kalimantan.

Also they have loosen up on this operation.Another province known to practise similar tradition is Lampung in Sumatra. This vibrant atmosphere like in Pontianak cannot be felt elsewhere in the republic.
 

A big cannon

In Malaysia the 'meriam buloh ' or bamboo cannons were used instead with disastrous results. On the other hand in Pontianak the smallest cannons used were made out of a coconut trunk while the biggest from a big tree trunk that sometimes can accommodate at least one or sometimes two persons in the hollow, that's how big it is.The length of the cannon can be up to four meters. How do they do it? The trunk will be split into two halves and a hollow dug out the center from one end to the other. The trunk  will then be  spliced securely together with rattan and enforced with steel cables too. This is a wonderful local technology. The trunk will then be immersed underwater for sometime to strengthen it before use.

 

Our cannon at Bangka Belitung,Pontianak



Usually a litre of carbide will be placed inside the cannon and a pail of water poured and left to react for a couple of minutes. The mouth of the cannon will  be covered with newspaper. After a couple of minutes the cannon will be ignited and kaboom! The sound of artillery fire filled the evening skies over Pontianak. Strangely though, no casualties were  reported till now.

When my tour of my duty ended in 1985, on the flight back I said a silent prayer and wished that  someday I can return  to see the friends I left behind.Friends who are now like my own relations. Well, like what the locals  said, people who came to Pontianak and have tasted the water here will eventually return someday.  I was indeed presented with the opportunity to be in Pontianak again for a Search and Rescue (SAR) meeting in 2005.I was indeed flabbergasted  about this return to my old hunting ground.Unfortunately the Pontianak I knew in the 1980s and the present day Pontianak was indeed in great contrast. Progress finally did catch up with this province of Indonesia and this spells good for the locals. A new airport and the town with buildings now exceeding four floors is an indication they are moving in the right direction. Frankly, I loved the Pontianak of the 80s where life was slow and people were friendly. It was congested then but more congested now. Cleanliness I think remain unchanged.

Wish I can be there again someday and of course preferably  towards the end of  Ramadan which will be absolutely fantastic.
Insya Allah.